rewiring your boat is a real labor of love.
be real surprised if you can find a ready-made harness -- you're just going to have to suck it up & do what the rest of us have done.
ABYC standard is marine grade tinned copper strand (too much shock & vibration on a boat for solid conductor), with crimped or crimped & soldered connections, but not solder alone (the solder joint amounts to a solid conductor junction to stranded -- too likely to break on a boat). Wire nuts or taped pigtails are just not a good idea, on a boat.
I used automotive -- I have a feeling it won't last as long.
Get yourself a good quality crimping tool (I mean a really good one) and wire stripper, and some butt connectors. Some people add heat shrink, not a bad idea.
*DON'T* be tempted to not use fuses -- a boat is no place to have a fire. Use wire of at least the same gauge as you have on there now.
where you have to go under floors or through bulkheads, use electrical tape to fasten the end of the new wire to the old and pull it through.
Basic generic boat wiring:
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w333/dustyCrockett/InstrumentPanelWiring.jpg
contrary to that diagram, standard wire colors for gauge senders are gray (tach) and pink (fuel). I don't know about speedo (don't have one).
Hey, there's way worse ways to spend an afternoon.
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